The journey was once again very bumpy and dangerous. The
only light relief came from the bus’s ticket collector, with his periodic cries
of “We stop now! five minutes for tea and urine!”
Andrew shook his close-cropped head in puzzlement when I asked
him his future plans. “You know something?”, he remarked. “I’ve been right
round the South-East Asia circuit now – I’ve been to Sri Lanka, to Thailand, to
Burma and every other damn place – and I’ve found all these places pretty much
alike, and very easy to get grips with. But India! I’ve been here over a month
already, and I’m still no nearer to understanding it than when I first arrived!
I expect I’ll have to hang around until I do
understand it ….”
….Nepali women ….were nearly all beautiful, and nearly all
pregnant. They appeared a good deal more open and friendly than the women of
India, and the relationship between the two sexes here in Nepal seemed
altogether more close and natural.
The more I saw of India, the more I liked it. Wandering
through the streets and observing the many herds of sacred cows, for instance,
I could now view them as amiable, benevolent spirits rather than unnecessary
public nuisances. ……..Now I could see some of their value. Not only did their
endless patience and calm stoicism contribute some sense of order and
tranquility to busy Indian streets, but they also managed to keep the
accumulation of waste and rubbish on the road down by eating a remarkable
amount of it.
Postscript
Off the plane back in Heathrow ………I returned straight home
and ate a simple meal of rice and yoghourt – the nearest thing to an Indian
‘thali’ I could find.
Then I ran a bath, my first in four months, and discovered
on the scales that I was two whole stones lighter than when I had left England.
Finally, I climbed into bed, faintly aware of the deafening silence in the
streets outside, and slept for a whole day.
I woke up feeling like I had been wrung through a mangle
backwards. Then, as consciousness returned, I found myself thinking of my next
journey. Where would I be going? Why, back to India of course.
Most people do.
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