…the passport officers eventually sauntered on to the scene,
tired-looking young women with closed faces, replicating their Soviet
predecessors. In a perverse way it cheered me that capitalism had not yet
taught them to feign friendliness for the sake of the tourist industry.
…the new Moscow’s crime-ridden image.
To the casual visitor, poverty is more evident than crime,
the sort of poverty never visible in Soviet times. Next morning, as I
approached a skip ….. an old man, desperately seeking food amidst the household
waste of this affluent district, seemed not to notice me. When he found a small
plastic bag of stale crusts, discoloured lettuce leaves and chicken bones the
relief on his face was harrowing to see.
……five-and-a-half day train ride to Tynda ….. How ……would a
three-year-old react to five days confinement? …..I was deeply impressed by
Dima. He never once woke up anybody, always peed in his potty at convenient
times, was carried out to the loo once a day for more substantial matters, ate
everything put before him, contentedly gazed out of the window for hours on
end, his lips moving, inventing a game in his mind. When it suited his parents
and sister they played with him but he never demanded attention though lacking
all those diversions we provide for long journeys. In nearby compartments four
other toddlers and small children were equally well-behaved and happy. Do the
Russians have something to teach us about child-rearing?
Mrs Baranskaya volunteered to make up my bed, a touching
gesture of welcome – characteristic, I was soon to realize, of the incomparably
hospitable Siberians….
Because the multinational breweries’ advertisements give the
impression that beer is almost a soft
drink, it is now openly imbibed in circumstances where vodka would not be
tolerated. Frequently I saw small boys swilling from cans, sold by most
pavement kiosks, while awaiting their school buses. As Russia has been
notorious, over the past thousand years, for off-the-scale alcoholism, it is
hard to forgive those corporations now enticing young Russians to develop a pivo addiction
I had by then realized that the Siberians’ devotion to their
domestic animals does not extend to guard-dogs who must endure a loveless life,
forever chained, feared by all but their owners.
It is impossible to escape from any Siberian home ….Siberian
hospitality is agreeably informal, strangers being absorbed into a family
circle without ceremony, and no polite protests were made when I joined …..
……..Adam Olearius in the 1630s…made four journeys among the
Russians and reported, in what became an international bestseller …..
After a meal, Russians do not restrain, in the hearing of
all, from releasing what nature produces, fore and aft. Since they eat a great
deal of garlic and onion it is rather trying to be in their company. Perhaps
against their will these good people fart and belch noisily….. So given are
they to the lusts of the flesh that some are addicted to the vile depravity of
sodomy not only with boys but also with men and horses. People caught in such
obscene acts are not severely punished. Tavern musicians often sing of such
loathsome things, while some show them to young people in puppet shows.
….Russian bees have a long-established reputation for
ferocity.
Feodor was one of those standard Muscovites ….who have
missed out on the varied genetic contributions that make many Russians look
interesting.
…Russian proverb: ‘We meet you according to your dress and
see you off according to your mind.’
…Lake Baikal ….the lake’s emanations have influenced
Severobaikalsk. I cant complain of unfriendliness anywhere in Siberia but this
town’s relaxed amiability and spontaneity seem exceptional.
I like the Siberians’ tendency to congregate in their kitchens,
invariably small but very much the centre of the home ….
A carefully conducted inquiry found that 67 per cent of boys
and 46 per cent of girls regularly drank alcohol…..it comes from a 1901 survey
of the recreational habits of rural schoolchildren, aged seven to thirteen, in
Moscow province ….Alcoholism has afflicted Russians to an alarming extent since
at least the Middle Ages …..
Sadly, it is not a sobering fact that today’s Russian
adolescents are less likely to celebrate their sixtieth birthdays than the 1900
generation.