It was fascinating to watch the different behavior of
various pilgrims in Mecca……. The black Africans managed to look relaxed even in
the ihram, thanks to their athletic build, their way of walking coupled with
the fact that they used the upper cloth as a scarf sometimes, draping it around
their necks with an almost dandy air. The Afghans benefited from laying aside
their intimidating robes – now their regular features and bright eyes were
shown to advantage. The moment they pulled on their local garments their proud
bearing returned, they stood up taller, feet wide apart, two heads higher
thanks to their turbans. They kissed and embraced one another in elaborate
rituals – the expression of a connection that went beyond Islam. In absolute
contrast to the Afghans were the Indonesians, the largest Muslim population in
the world, and perhaps the friendliest… the Indonesians were reserved, gentle,
and discreet; they were soft-spoken, and their diminutive height seemed part of
their good manners: they never blocked one’s view….
Mecca is a town steeped in history, and yet one with no
ancient buildings. Its history is not merely ignored by the prevailing teachings
– it is regarded as dangerous. In an amnesia that enjoys an official stamp,
believers are to pay no heed to the developments and decisions made in the 14
centuries since the Prophet (pbuh) and the Sahabah
lived, but to trust only the Qur’an and ahadith,
and, as a pilgrim to visit only the Kaaba – which is an artefact that goes
beyond history. The desire to see the sites of the stories of the Prophet’s
(pbuh) passion and revelation is regarded as destructive tourism. The Saudis
have destroyed what was believed to be the birthplace of the Prophet (pbuh) and
consigned the burial spot to anonymity. …..Likewise, Mecca is a cultural centre
which has been drained of its culture. Theatre and music are frowned upon, of
course, but the public baths and the coffee houses have also gone….. In the
bookshops, the great Arabian thinkers of the past, and present, are nowhere to
be found….the Saudi interpretation [of the Qur’an] often differs considerably
from the classical ones.
Pilgrims from Istanbul, Damascus and Cairo regard the Saudis
as parvenus, nouveau-riche, and
lacking in civilization. And the Saudis do their utmost to live up to this
assessment through their rude and coarse behavior.
During the first capture of Medina by the Wahhabis 200 years
ago, the treasures of the Grand Mosque were stolen, supposedly to be shared
amongst the poor, but the leader, Saud, sold parts of it to the Sharif of
Mecca, retaining the lion’s share for himself. Although the Prophet’s (pbuh)
commandments are meant to be followed at all times, certain ahadith are
postulated as fundamental principles, while others are simply ignored. One
hadith states, for example, that one should not build a house substantially
bigger than one’s neighbour’s so that he does not feel humiliated, and yet the
immense palace of the king in Mecca dwarves not only the neighbouring buildings
but even the House of God.
Another hadith says: pay those who have worked for you
before the sweat on their brow has dried. Yet Saudi Arabian employees continue
to owe wages to foreign workers who come in their hundreds and thousands from
the poorer regions of the Islamic World…..
And the high life of the Saudi elite break another very well
known hadith: ‘Allah despises those who
squander their wealth.’
Wahhabi Islam, referred to ….as ‘fundamentalism’, doesn’t
even correspond in its rudiments to the holistic programme of Islam. Neither
the absolutist monarchy nor the totalitarian suppression of free expression can
find any justification in the Qur’an. The sovereign elite keep tight control of
the laws, but if it suits their interests they will also turn a blind eye…..
But because they keep the holy sites clean and accessible, constantly improving
the infrastructure while ensuring the Hajj is less dangerous and more just, the
hosts often receive a great deal of approval. ….The Saudis take their role as
guardians of the holy mosques and sites very seriously, and shy away from no
investment that could result in a safer and more comfortable Hajj. And thus
gratitude is as commonly expressed as criticism.
In Mina, as in Mecca, there are hardly any beggars, but the
few that were there, were Indians (‘The Indians, always extreme,’ Richard
Burton wrote, ‘are either beggars or millionaires’) Up until a few years ago
beggars from India were imported especially for Ramadan so that the prescribed
generosity for that month wouldn’t fail for lack of recipients. The beggars
were apparently professionals….they had to hand over their alms to receive a
wage in return……
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